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Cycling The Manali-Leh Highway: Part Two
Day1 through Day 3
Day 1 September 7th, 2014 Manali to Marrhi(1900m – 3303m) After a very nice few days in Manali, we head off!
The first day is said to be the roughest and it is further said that those who complete it are most likely going to re-think their resolve to complete the entire route. It is a whole day of riding uphill with nothing but a 50 metre reprieve of flat cycling! Circumstance had us cycling this route in September which is said to be the best month, unfortunately the monsoon season was not yet over so we experienced some rain. The real challenge though lay with the amount of gear I was carrying. I was told it was wise to carry a tent and camping equipment as there was a possibility to be caught in between sleeping places. This extra gear added considerable weight to the essentials I was already carrying and after even just a few kilometres, I got a little grumpy at my slow pace and the work it took to get myself up the steady incline.
We did finally make it to our destination of Marrhi, dead tired but very glad to have bagged one of the only accomodation places in the ramshackle little town. We stayed the night in the dilapidated Government building that is used to house officials that come to ‘town’. It seemed though that not even officials stayed there too often! It was a little rough! Despite this, we were happy to have a roof over our head and a sit down toilet! We were allotted an ice cold bucket of water for cleaning and toilet use and were given a warning that if it rains heavily… the roof leaks right over the beds! Well, it rained heavily that night without either of us realizing and the roof leaked right over Heather’s bed! Her sleeping bag was soaked but it didn’t seem to have bothered her sleep!
For this ‘luxury’ we paid 1,000 rupees! Dinner at the Snow Lion Restaurant was very basic. I went for my default safe food of tomato soup and rice from the not very large menu selection. The plentiful food choices we enjoyed in Manali were now a thing of the past. From here on we would be offered a breakfast of bread omelet or perhaps the odd porridge, and a lunch and dinner of Thali… the perennial Indian meal of dahl, mixed veg, chapati and rice. If lucky maybe chow mien or a bowl of Thukpa, the Tibetan version of noodle soup. The higher in altitude we got, the smaller the menu got. But thankfully everywhere we went, there was always a hot cup of chai waiting for us! Day one was over!! We had made it through the toughest day of the entire route… and with two fully loaded bicycles. We walked back to the Government house in the chill of the night happy with our accomplishment. Though not too thrilled that we would be carrying so much gear the rest of the way. Wait.. Heather’s load was manageable so I was solely unthrilled! Soooo much gear. What was I thinking?! Day 1 Photo Gallery
Day 2 September 8th, 2014 Marrhi (3300) to Sissu (3086) via Rohtang La(3978m) It was in Marrhi that we met up with a group from India who were also cycling from Manali to Leh. They were travelling with a support vehicle, and they offered to help us out with some of our bags. After spending the entire first day struggling up the first pass, I was more than glad to accept their offer and offloaded my biggest and heaviest bag with them! This made cycling soooo much more pleasurable! At this point, I still thought I could do the entire route fully loaded, but I knew it would be a hard grind. Offloading even one bag was a huge relief! Marrhi to Sissu had us going over the Rohtang Pass. At only (only?)3978m, this would be the smallest of the four passes we were to cross before reaching Leh. It was the smallest, yet the toughest and as luck would have it, we experienced extremely wet weather on the far side of the pass.
The descent was chilly to say the least and complicated by the fact that the road was not well paved and slick with mud and gravel. A couple of times we hit some backed up traffic. Thanks to being on bikes, we were able to skirt around the dozens of cars trapped behind the crews working to make the washed out road accessible again. Crazy that on the far side of the pass I also randomly bumped into a friend of mine who I had met more than a year ago in a hostel in Shenzhen! Janny was just coming back from her trip to Leh and lunching in the same spot as we were! A quick photo snap and a brief catching up was all that time would allow us. Though as she said, “We are travellers, we will meet again somewhere!”
By the time we made it to Sissu, our rest place for the night, the pass was long behind us and the weather turned pleasant. There was some confusion as to where the town actually was and our efforts to figure out if we were in the right place were complicated by the very drunk yet friendly man who was trying to help us! It would be a common occurrence to arrive at a destination only to find that accommodation was another few kilometres away. We wearily wheeled our bikes up another incline and settled into a very nice hotel overlooking the beautiful lush river valley below us. A lovely Butter Chicken dinner and hot shower later we turned in after admiring the clear moonlit starry night sky from our balcony, proud that we had completed the first of the four passes we needed to cross to get to Leh. Day 2 Photo Gallery
The view from just above Marrhi
Day 3 September 9th, 2014 Sissu (3086m) – Jispa (3255m) Morning came to sun peaking over the mountains and lighting up the range on the far side of the river. We enjoyed a breakfast on the balcony taking this all in. And then it was on to changing out of our comfortable ‘off bike’ clothes and into our still damp and somewhat dirty bike clothes.
To conserve space and weight, both Heather and I brought only minimal clothing which meant that we biked in the same clothes day after day. Yuck!! This was actually one of the big tests of this ride! As we gained in altitude and the air got cooler, it was such a challenge to get out of our beds and into dampish cycle clothing. Yuck!! But once on, anticipation of the day’s bike ride over shadowed the grossness of smelly, dirty clothes!
This day proved to be another good one! The weather was perfect for our 9-ish start and not long after dropping off my big bag with the Trek Bulls support vehicle, the vehicle caught up with us a little up the road and the driver, R.K., offered to take ALL of our bags!!! YES PLEASE!!!! We happily unloaded our panniers into the jeep, profusely thanking the driver for such charity! It was a funny thing that they did not know how to take our thanks! Professing time and again that it was really nothing. Yet for us it meant the world and it meant a far more enjoyable trip. We bid the support vehicle good bye and carried on light as a feather! And fully soaking in the granduer of the scenery that surrounded us. It was by far the best day of biking so far. Our load was minimal, the day remained sunny and warm, the grade was mostly flat or even downhill, and there was little traffic. This made it easy to bike and converse at the same time. The ride, instead of a chore became somewhat festive!
Despite receiving much appreciated assistance from the Trek Bulls group, Heather and I kept mainly to ourselves in riding and in our dinner and breakfast plans. The Trek Bulls group were camping and cooking.
Heather and I both were in agreement that where possible, we would stay indoors and eat at restaurants! This was our comfort level and the teasing of the others did not sway us from continuing this pattern of finding the best low budget accomodation the entire 9 days! Even though some of the places we stayed would get a little – how do I put this?- a little gross! We made very good time and arrived early-ish in Jispa. The others set up camp in an open field and the cook got to the business of cooking their dinner while we scouted out the few guesthouses a little up the road. We settled on the Himalayan Guest House which had nice a nice room for 400 rupees(less than $10). They only offered one dinner choice…. Thali and feeling a hankering for pasta, we went for dinner next door at the Ibex Hotel. After a lovely pasta dinner, we went to where Trek Bulls had set up their campsite and enjoyed a bonfire and piece of chocolate cake to celebrate Wishvas’s birthday! Wishvas is the main man behind Trekbulls.com and leader of this pilot cycle tour that saw four participants, and a crew of four support staff wind their way from Manali to Leh. We would come to know this group well over the next several days as our respective adventures intertwined. Walking back from the bonfire was magical as the air was crisp and cool and the sky was clear and bright with stars. The moon had risen over one mountain and was now softly illuminating another. It was simply breathtaking. It couldn’t have been more than 9:00pm but we were done thanks to the effort of biking all day, an we both soon drifted off to a satisfying sleep. Day 3 Photo Gallery
Day 3 – Heather enjoys breaky on the balcony
Day 3 scenery
Day 3 scenery
Day 3 – Trek Bulls kitchen! The few meals we tried out were delicious!
Day 3 – View of our guest house in Sissu
Day 3 scenery
DAy 3 – Yet another road block
Day 3 – Tandi… check! 372 kms to Leh!
Day 3 Scenery
Day 3 – A touching tribute to those who built and build this road
Day 3 Scenic
Day 3 – Heather passes the Keylong town gate!
Day 3 – Heather fixes her bike while local woman washes dishes. Lunch in Keylong!
Day 3 – Stunning little village just passed Keylong.
Day 3 – Back on the road again!
Day 3- And only 353 kms to go to Leh!!
Day 3 Scenery
Day 3 – Picturesque Village
Day 3 – Only 14 kms til we get off the bikes!
Day 3 Scenic
Day 3 – Another Picturesque Village!
Day 3 – Playing cards in the sun
Day 3 – Tandi 15 kms!
Day 3 – Rolling Stone Zone… bahaha!!
Day 3 – Entering village of Keylong
Cycling the Manali-Leh highway: Part One
Planting The Seed
It was a simple aspiration… solo cycle the Himalayas, full stop. With the crowning glory of this journey being the Manali-Leh Highway, a very high altitude route famous among cycle tourists in equal measures for it’s stunningly beautiful landscape, diverse traditional cultures, and the many challenges it presents. Challenges? High altitude, deteriorated road conditions, rainfall, relentless sun, freezing cold, snow, and wind. All the things you would expect from the unpredictable mountain passes. Culture? Landscape? Well, you will have to check out the photos!!
This would be a test of my courage and my resolve. Did I have what it takes to bike solo and unsupported across one of the highest motorable highways in the world?
Well, the trip is now over and I have cycled the distance…. though the trip ended up quite different that I had thought and the above questions remain unanswered!
I conceived the idea from the luxury of my house sitting gig in Thailand where I had been relaxing for several months after my epic world cycle trip that brought me from London, England to Koh Lanta, Thailand. Having spent over a year in the tropics, I was dying for some crisp mountain air and wild mountain scenery and as my house sitting gig was about to end… I jumped at the chance to cycle a high altitude highway.
Part of wanting to tackle a high altitude pass was to make up for missing out on the Pamir Highway when I cycled through Central Asia a year and a half previously. The Pamir Highway is another high altitude route also coveted by adventurous cycle tourists and one I missed out on because Tajikistan, the country in which the Pamir Highway lies, was in the midst of some political instability and access to the highway was cut off.
Bummer.
So here it was two years later and opportunity knocked to do the Manali-Leh Highway. And it was sooo calling me!
Only thing was, the window to do the route was closing. It was May and I had about four months to gear up, get me and my bike to India and cross the pass before it closed in September. I had to giddy up!
Slight Change of Plans!
Gearing up was no easy feat, considering I had been cycling in fair weather for the most part of two years and I had long ditched most of my cold weather cycling clothing. Not to mention all the essential biking clothes I had which was all but worn out.
Yikes! But the lure of the adventure before me made preparing a joy and the anticipation of what lay ahead filled me with wonder and excitement.
It was early in these preparations though that my journey took on a completely different flavour. The way in which I wanted to travel required me to be self supported, which meant I needed my cook stove that I had left with a friend in London. I emailed Heather telling her what I was up to and if she could please send along my cook stove?
I also asked her along! I knew she was an adventurous sort as well and what did I have to lose by asking…
Me:
" I still haven't given up on some crazy adventure karma having our paths cross again. I mean if biking Ladakh appeals to you... you are totally welcome to join!!"
Heather:
"I would actually love to come out & join you on part of your cycling trip, if it was ever possible to co-ordinate. I am looking for a bit of a cycling adventure.."
Say what?
Holy shit!!!
The face of my trip changed completely. And for the better. Yes I like the challenge of solo travel and all that, yet only because I usually can’t find anyone daring enough to come with me! Here was a good friend wanting to share this with me. I could not have been more please and I gladly let go of my solo aspirations to include Heather in my plans. No… it was more like the adventure all of a sudden became ‘our’ adventure. As much hers as mine.
With about three and a half months to go, there was a very real possibility that I would now have a cycling companion!! It may seem like a silly thing to be excited about, but none of my friends who I have invited to cycle with me have ever taken up the offer. Which is cool I understand about priorities, but I have longed for the opportunity to share my world with friends, a friend, anyone!!
And here was Heather saying an enthusiastic “yes!” to become part of this Himalayan adventure.
Despite repeatedly pinching myself to ensure that this was really happening, I also often remind myself that at anytime, circumstances in Heather’s life could prevent her from joining me.
Though as time progressed, it became very clear that she was totally serious and committed to doing this journey with me.
I remained in this flux between anticipation of her arrival and the very real possibility that she may not make it, right up until I saw her arrive at the Chandigarh airport.
Arrival
Heather, my intrepid cycling companion who booked two weeks out of her busy schedule to accompany me on a journey of a lifetime, a bicycle adventure from Manali to Leh, was here in Chandigarh! I could not stop staring at her as she struggled with her bicycle in the baggage area. I mean sure, she is totally cute… but I was staring at her (mostly) because I couldn’t believe she was actually here! It was like seeing a mirage….
“Really? She’s here? This is happening?”
“Darren, stop staring and help me with the bike.”
Right.
Oops!
The plan was to relax a bit in Chandigarh and then catch a bus up to Manali later that evening. In the meantime I would get my bike adjusted to make it easier to climb the many passes on the Manali-Leh highway. Well, I never did get my bike fixed! I left to go get it done then realized that I had left it too late and had to have Heather meet me at the travel agent where the bus to Manali was booked.
So not even a day in India and I had Heather flagging down an auto rickshaw, piling in with her bike and luggage and go off to a location she only knew the name of with a rickshaw driver who soon got last and our only communication was through texting through her London mobile account. I was down to six remaining txt messages and about to cancel our night bus, when she appeared out of traffic with a big though nervous smile that said, “Okay I made it… but that was tough!”
I had hoped to make the first bit easy for Heather as this was her first time in ‘real’ India outside of her resort trip to Goa. But no. I blew it and there she was alone in a rickshaw in a strange city in a strange country. Oops… sorry ’bout that! But as I say, she arrived with a smile and an “Oh well, shit happens!” and we hopped our bus to Manali in the nick of time.
So not even a day with my new travelling companion and I came face to face with one of the biggest challenges of travelling with someone… having someone witness, and be affected by, my mess ups! When I’m on my own they aren’t really mess ups, they are just the way I do things!! But with someone along, I am acutely conscious of the fact that how I do things don’t always go as planned and I’m especially conscious when it affects them in a negative way. And the illusion I have of myself as a fully capable and competent traveller… is put to question! Ugh.
Manali – Mile Zero
I had just been to Manali with my cousin Allison. And had the place sussed out, and even had arranged for the guy who runs the guest house we would be staying at to pick us up. THAT all went smooth and even the rest of our two day stay in Manali went smooth. It was a nice backdrop to get reacquainted. Not to mention gear up a little more and put Heather’s bike together.
We booked a room with a loft and so had plenty of space to sort out our respective gear. I had bought a tent on account of a suggestion from two Scots who had done the trip the previous year and highly recommended that we travel with one…. yet it also put my gear quotient over the top.
I was simply carrying too much gear.
Though it was too late to leave anything behind as I may not make it back to Manali and I didn’t trust leaving my laptop behind. Yeah that’s right… I brought my laptop!!
So I resolved to just suck it up and carry the load. Tent, campstove, camp fuel, cookware, laptop, camera, assorted charging cables. Oh and food as well!!
Didn’t feel quite right… but what were my options?
We did a fun short cycle without the panniers the day before we left, just to make sure the bikes were okay and ensure we knew our way out of town! I had cycled with Heather before in Bolivia and in England and I knew her to be an extremely good cyclist. She had her doubts about whether or not she could keep up… our little fun cycle reassured her that she was up to the task.
Our few days in Manali ended with a great dinner and a beer and a last minute planning session at a very nice hotel. We returned to our guest house for our last sleep before the big journey began the next morning! Both of us excited, yet nervous to begin this crazy adventure cycling one of the highest and most difficult highway on the planet!
Manali
Manali
Manali – Heather looking great at the Fusion Cafe
Manali – Time to bring the cows home!
Manali – The planning continues!
Manali – Darren needs a shave!
Manali – Heather with some new friends.
Manali – ‘Mall’ area of New Manali
Manali – Heather all set at Manu Guest House
Manali – Fine stay at Manu Guest House
On The Road Again… Very Soon!
I leave Thailand in just over two weeks. That’s when my visa is up. I won’t be coming back straight away as I have for the past year. No. I will instead be packing my bike into a box and flying with it to Delhi! To start an epic bike ride through the Himalayas!
I am both excited and nervous about this. Excited because… I love an adventure… hello!!! And nervous because… its frickin’ India and India is frickin’ scary! Last time I was in India I made myself sick with anticipation about how it would be when I landed. I projected all kinds of dreadful scenarios that, in the end, never came to be. My landing was smooth and wondrous and I hit the ground running with five other travellers and with their help, we easily navigated our way through Calcutta and on to Bodhgaya, Varanasi and Delhi. No ay problema!
But that was then. That time it all worked out! This time? the dreadful scenarios are piling up and pushing themselves into my stream of thought which of course causes me butterflies. All the what ifs!!!
Ahhhhh! This is not my first time around the block! Why the nerves?!
Oh well, here’s hoping it all works out!
Some answers to questions people have asked.
Dude! You got it amazing there… why are you leaving?!
Ha! Totally I got it good here… all things material a guy could possibly want. And the weather to boot! So why am I leaving?
I have been in Thailand one year almost to the day, and despite loving it here, I am totally called to be on the road right now. Longing for crisp mountain air and a good thigh burn up a steep incline. I long to see my breath and gaze across mountain landscape. And yeah… spend a few nights in my tent freezing my butt off!
I want to experience the depth of spirit I remember from my last time in India. Here I’ve become somewhat hedonistic in a way that is not sustainable or even desirable. It feels kinda empty. Fun! Don’t get me wrong… but lacking depth and meaning.
So where are you going?
Think I already gave that away! India! But NW India to be more precise! When the opportunity presented itself to get back on the bike… My first thought was NW India and more specifically the Manali – Leh Highway. Four hundred and fifty odd kilometres of remote mountain highway that crosses four 4,000 metre passes.
…And Why?
When I was crossing Central Asia by bicycle… I was driven on by the hopes of cycling the Pamir Highway, another high altitude roadway that for me is the holy grail of the kind of cycling I want to do: Remote, challenging, beautiful, cultural. I didn’t get to do it because at the time the Pamir Highway was closed on account of some political turmoil.
I felt cheated! And wondered if I would ever get a chance to do this route again. Though when my mind focused on NW India and the Manali – Leh highway… it was like, “Yeah, this will more than make up for missing the Pamir Highway!”
Need to give a shout out to Mat and Anna from Poland. Two intrepid cyclists who I met in Kyrgyzstan and then again recently in Koh Lanta! They held me spellbound as they told the story of their ride through NW India… and even after they had gone, I scoured their blog: Getting Nowhere captivated once again by their account of their journey through this remote area. I had written India off as too dangerous a place to travel… and yet herr were these two telling me otherwise.
Are you travelling solo?
Okay no one has actually asked me this, maybe they just assume I am! But I am so excited that, no!!! I am not travelling alone. At least for the first couple of weeks.
I had contacted my friend Heather in London who I stayed with while in London asking if she would mind sending me my stove and water filter that I was storing at her place. And I said, sincerely that if she wanted to join me she was more than welcome! And to my surprised delight… she said, “What the hell? Why not?” A bike expedition she was supposed to go on in Death Valley had been cancelled and she was more that ready for an adventure!
I met Heather in Sucre, Bolivia at a home stay and shared good conversation and a few bike excursions! One in Sucre and also we did the Death Road in La Paz. A wild decent down what’s claimed to be the most dangerous road in the world. Fun!! Clearly we both survived!
As I mentioned Heather was also very kind to host me at her place at the start of my World By Bike adventure. I still have extremely fond memories of that stay and my time sightseeing there. She even biked with me my first day out of London and also joined me from Bristol to Bath during the ‘I don’t know what the hell I’m doing so I will just meander around England’ phase of my world trip.
I was such an unaccomplished rookie cyclist back then and she got to witness some of my freak outs!
Hopefully now after a couple of years on the road and 12,000 km on the bike… I will have a little more panache.
Heather has perhaps as adventurous a soul as I do and I admire her because she has balanced her adventure fix while also maintaining her career as a doctor.
Many many people have taken interest in this thing that I’m doing… though I have been dying for someone to join me in cycling these far reaches of the planet. That Heather has bought the plane ticket and jumped in with both feet gives, for me, much needed external validation to what I’m doing.
Are you ready for this?
In terms of preparing? Hells no! I am scrambling at the moment to save my life!! Ahhhhh! But in the bigger sense of being ready… absolutely. Despite my extended stay in Thailand, I still see myself as a dude on bike exploring the world and I am so ready to get back to that. Needing some perspective actually on the hollowness paradise served up. Behind the good times.
What about this new website?
Alright no one asked me about this either but no one knew about it! I am really excited about having a ‘home’! Not just an account on Travelpod. A place where I can showcase my digital life! My writing, my pictures and my goofy videos! So far this is a work in progress but stay tuned!
Okay I just pushed out over a thousand words! In future posts, I’m going to try and keep it around there and write more often. And yeah I know that this post isn’t the type of writing people have come to expect from me… and I need to work out my nerves before I get back to that!! Weird! Starting a new website like this has left me very self conscious about my writing. here’s hoping that doesn’t last long. Hey! At least it’s informative eh?
Yet Another Bike Adventure
So as I sit here, enjoying my last few moments of paradise I am pondering what’s next. And what’s next is a epic bike ride through the Himalayas.
The opportunity to cycle in and around and through the highest mountain range of the world presented itself and …how could I resist taking up the challenge?
And I ponder… why am I so drawn to an adventure of this sort? What is it about the idea of setting out on a good adventure that motivates me like nothing else?
I know the answer! Because there is nothing else in the world that fills me with the same sense of ‘spaciousness’ as does dreaming about doing something challenging, cool, epic, remote, high.
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And the joy and excitement of morphing that dream, little by little into reality.
Nope. Nothing like it.
I will explore this idea, this pursuit of spaciousness in further posts! Right now though, I think I’ll just enjoy it!!
Paradise is a place?
I live in Koh Lanta, Thailand in the lap of luxury high up on a jungle hill, overlooking a beautiful Island dotted inlet. I have at my disposal a lap pool, high speed internet, big screen TV, a scooter, fridge, stove, washing machine, AC and delicious Thai restaurants five minutes down the road.
And the Ocean another minute past the restaurants. I have friends here and an active social life. I do laps in the pool at least 5 days a week and my body is showing the results… my fear of becoming a bald fat 50 something is looking less and less likely. Well bald yes! What can you do?
I eat very healthy and I fully appreciate what I have. FULLY I have all this at my disposal and plenty of time to enjoy it. I have it all here. I really do!
And yet something is missing! Something that I will probably only figure out once I leave this place. Which is soon. I know something is missing because for some reason, instead of just enjoying all this luxury and leisure, instead of the well being I would have thought all this would bring me… something feels off!
The place that resembles mostly what paradise should look and feel like, turns out can issue out as hollow an experience as being in a tent in the middle of a central Asian desert. Wait… I actually felt quite connected in that instance!
I could be the only person on the planet who would see this as a good thing!! But I do! To have it all and to still feel this hollowness. How beautiful is that?! It frees me from wanting it all! Or it tells me that having it all is not what it’s about. That life… at least for me does not require the perks to make it feel complete. Or more having all the perks does not necessarily make it complete. But I knew this before… it’s kinda why I’m doing what I’m doing! This travelling and writing gig thing that I’m doing, that I at times don’t know what I’m doing!! It reconfirms for me what my life NEEDS to be about. Passion. Creativity. Adventure. Risk. But this wasn’t the biggest learning from my stay in Lanta.
In Lanta, I experienced comfort, stability, routine. And it was for sure a nice break from my huge bike ride where I was indeed losing perspective. Yet my luxurious break also brought to light an important connection I had not been aware of.
That the hollowness I was struggling with, and had struggled with for… ever, had a twin!
That there was a very strong connection between that hollowness and the anxiety and awkwardness I experience when it comes to connecting with others, even in basic social interactions.
Um yes, that’s right people, even you who know me well! I put up a good face, I knows it… but inside when it comes to connecting… I’m a train wreck!!
It was in Lanta that I fully got this. And it took several instances of anxiety filled social and interpersonal interactions for it to really sink in.
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Hmmmmm. At this point, in a website titled “Journey In Word” and if you get the play on words, you would expect that I would have a spiritual, meaningful solution to this. Nope!
Once it sank in how awkward for me connecting was and how disconnected I felt, I made a ‘desperate’ decision to connect at all costs!
And as it turns out I did know how to connect… drinking!
The moments I look back on the connected moments in my life… these islands of connection… many of them involved alcohol. Some of my favorite memories are of being piss drunk with friends. I know this not to be a permanent solution. I can’t even imagine the person I would be today if I had been at it as hard as I was in College all this time… yet the need I have to connect at the moment, blotted out my usual discernment around alcohol.
Many of the people I like here drink …copiously! And they are good people, I figured if I’m going to connect I need to meet them there.
And what can I say? Holy crap have I been having fun! Holy crap. Feels so good to get to a point where I feel so connected to the people I am partying with it doesn’t matter how I got there. Drunken friends …you complete me!
For the moment this eases the pain of disconnection I struggle with. And it is also a major reason I am getting off this Island! That and the humidity!
I know that if I stayed, I would deepen this drinking groove …and this does not entice me. I am so enjoying my drunken exploits here! So so soooooo much fun… I just do not want to make it a part of my life. Living here it would be.
So paradise gets put on the back burner! Happy to cycle off to a place where the disconnectedness I struggle with is on account of actually being alone and not on account of feeling alone in the midst of ample social opportunity.
Oh and the weed thing?! That’s a whole other topic!
First Day in Laos
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Turkmenistan… First beer in over a month!
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